American Alpine Jounrna and Accidents in North American Climbing

North America, Greenland, Kugssuatsiaq, South Greenland

  • Climbs And Expeditions
  • Climb Year:
  • Publication Year: 1973

Kugssuatsiaq, South Greenland. The Leicester Polytechnic Students’ Greenland Expedition arrived in Nanortalik on July 11, travelling by air from Glasgow and by coastal ferry from Narssarsuaq. On July 19 we sailed overnight by fishing boat to the valley of Kugssuatsiaq, which runs north to south at the head of S0ndre Sermilik. By July 23 Base Camp was established 1½ miles up the valley. We split into two groups of five, one group climbing and the other carrying out ecological work. The mountaineering centered around four areas. In all, 20 summits were reached, ten of which were first ascents. The rock was mainly very loose and dangerous. The first area was situated around three small glaciers southwest of Base Camp. Following this, a week was spent climbing west of Base Camp. There Mick Davis, Graham Hudson, Ian Lambert and I made the second ascent of Kûgssuatsiaup Qaqâ (1680 meters or 5512 feet) on August 2. On August 7 an advanced camp was established at the head of the valley. During the ensuing two weeks most of the first ascents were made, culminating in P 1950 (6398 feet), a very remote peak north of Base Camp climbed on August 17 by Peter Meads, Lambert and me. Finally the climbing party moved by rubber dinghy to a new valley base to the east of Kugssup Qaqa and spent two frustrating weeks sitting out a period of stormy weather.

Andrew Barbier, Leicester Polytechnic Caving and Mountaineering Club

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