American Alpine Jounrna and Accidents in North American Climbing

North America, Canada, Interior Ranges, Pigeon Spire, East Face Variation, Bugaboos

  • Climbs And Expeditions
  • Climb Year:
  • Publication Year: 1973

Pigeon Spire, East Face Variation, Bugaboos. In mid-August Dave Davis and I attempted to climb the east face of Pigeon Spire all free. We began at the start of the Cooper-Kor route and followed a direct line for six leads to the base of an imposing headwall, marvelous slab climbing, mostly fifth-class up the F7. To continue either straight up or to the right would have entailed more aid climbing than we cared for at the time. Instead, we rappelled to the base of Beckey’s east-nose route, scrambled up ledges and an adjacent slab to join the normal route to the summit. NCCS III, F7.

Gregory Markov, Unaffiliated

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