American Alpine Jounrna and Accidents in North American Climbing

North America, Canada, Interior Ranges, Sentinel, Northwest Couloir and Damon, North Face, Northern Selkirks

  • Climbs And Expeditions
  • Climb Year:
  • Publication Year: 1973

Sentinel, Northwest Couloir and Damon, North Face, Northern Selkirks. On July 11 Margaret Bland, Diane and Geoff Edmunds, A1 Ramanauskas, Joan Nester and I climbed this prominent couloir which can be seen from the Fairy Meadow Cabin. We climbed over a bergschrund at the base of the couloir, up a number of pitches of steep snow and ice and over very loose rock. The couloir led to the north ridge from which we gained the summit. It was a funnel for rocks from above and Geoff was squarely hit on his hard hat, luckily without damage. For protection we used a few snow flukes and nuts. From the cabin to the summit took 7½ hours. On July 15 Bernard Gerlach, Joan Nester, Donald Wallace and I climbed toward Friendship Col from the Fairy Meadow Cabin. We traversed below Gog and Magog to reach a fault (minor couloir) in the north face of Damon, which contained rock (some frozen in place), snow and ice. From the top of the fault it was an easy walk to the summit.

Edward O. Nester

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