American Alpine Jounrna and Accidents in North American Climbing

North America, Canada, Interior Ranges, Remillard Peak Area, Northern Selkirks

  • Climbs And Expeditions
  • Climb Year:
  • Publication Year: 1973

Remillard Peak Area, Northern Selkirks. Though disappointed to discover that another group had spent a week in 1971 in this previously undisturbed area, we decided to fly in during the first week of August to try the interesting, still unclimbed peaks. Our group consisted of Pete Owzarski, John Rowley, Tom Seim, Martin West, Dave and Jon Wilson, Marv Zimmerman and me. On August 5 we repeated the first party’s ascent of Unnamed F (8400 feet; 4.0 mi., 82°)*, ascending by their descent route, the easy southwest face and continued along an easy rock ridge to “Staircase Point” (8300 feet; 4.1 mi., 85°). On August 6 we ascended to the small pass just east of a marble-faced unnamed peak (3.1 mi., 56°). We followed the class-3 northeast ridge to the two 8600-foot summits. Seim, West and Dave Wilson then repeated the first party’s ascent of Unnamed B (9100 feet), while Zimmerman and I repeated Unnamed E (9200 feet) by the easy west ridge. We climbed to Nadir Notch on the 7th and contoured below Unnamed F and “Staircase Point” to the north ridge of Craw Peak (3.9 mi., 95°). From a low spot in this ridge some of us followed the rock ridge to the 8600-foot summit, encountering two leads of F3 climbing. The others rappelled off the back side of the ridge to the glacier and ascended the unbroken ice to the summit. The next day Seim, West, Dave Wilson and Zimmerman hiked west to the base of Remillard’s massive north face and followed the obvious ramp to the upper snowfield. They then climbed “The Mole” (1800 feet; 1.4 mi., 124°), Wart Peak (8100 feet; 1.4 mi., 103°) and Half Dome (8000 feet; 1.7 mi., 76°). These three easy rock peaks line the south and east edge of the upper snowfield. On August 9 Rowley, Seim, West, Dave Wilson and I repeated the first party’s ascents on the Waldorf Towers. Meanwhile Owzarski, Jon Wilson and Zimmerman climbed Serendipidy Spire (9400 feet; 4.9 mi., 66°) by easy snow and rock on the west side. On the following day we scattered. West, Dave Wilson and Seim repeated the first party’s ascents of Peak 1 (8500 feet) and Peak 2 (8600 feet) on Yardarm Ridge. They then climbed the third summit, Yardarm Peak (8800 feet; 2.4 mi., 357°) via F4 rock on the south ridge. At the same time Rowley and I reclimbed Unnamed F and followed the very thin, exposed rock ridge connecting this peak to another to the north, “One-Way Tower” (8500 feet; 4.4 mi., 76°). The ridge was of good granite and provided good climbing up to F8. Owzarski and Jon Wilson repeated the ascent of Unnamed A (7900 feet) by the easy east ridge, the descent route of the first party. On August 11 we all repeated the first party’s ascent of Remillard Peak via the ramp and moderately broken southeast face.

Thomas Dabrowski, Inter-Mountain Alpine Club

*The locations of the peaks are given in distance (miles) and bearing (degrees from true north) from the summit of Remillard Peak. The map on page 11 of the Canadian Alpine Journal, 1972 helps to visualize the position of the peaks.

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