American Alpine Jounrna and Accidents in North American Climbing

North America, Canada, Canadian Rockies, Mount McArthur, East Face Direct

  • Climbs And Expeditions
  • Climb Year:
  • Publication Year: 1973

Mount McArthur, East Face Direct. On August 4, Rich Lambe and I gained the Glacier des Poilus from the large alpine meadow below the south face of Isolated Peak. We crossed the bergschrund of Mount McArthur directly beneath the summit and attacked the steep snow and ice slopes rising above. Four pitches of poorly consolidated powder snow over ice brought us to the rocks beneath the summit. A rather brisk bombardment of falling stones spurred us up the remaining plaster-of-paris pitches and onto the summit ridge. Six pitches; 7 hours; NCCS II, F5.

John Kevin Fox, Alpine Club of Canada

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