American Alpine Jounrna and Accidents in North American Climbing

North America, Canada, Canadian Rockies, Mount Kichener, North Face

  • Climbs And Expeditions
  • Climb Year:
  • Publication Year: 1973

Mount Kitchener, North Face. Bob Beall, Brian Greenwood, Rob Wood and George Homer made a Grade V new direct route on the north face of Mount Kitchener in August. There were 30 leads of roped climbing after 500 feet of unroped climbing at the bottom. These included six leads of ice, which ranged from 40° to 90°. Three of the leads were on verglas-covered rock. The rest was on rotten rock. This was a very serious, long route with bad rockfall. All were hit numerous times and Beall suffered a broken finger. Greenwood has written the following to the Editor: “It was one of the best climbs I’ve ever done, one of those times when everything seemed right. I don’t know why; we were short on food, on pitons (unethical now!); rocks kept falling and missing. The issue was in doubt right to the final pitch. In spite of this the four of us got on really well for the three days.”

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