American Alpine Jounrna and Accidents in North American Climbing

North America, Canada, Yukon Territory, Peaks Above Kashkawulsh Glacier

  • Climbs And Expeditions
  • Climb Year:
  • Publication Year: 1973

Peaks Above Kaskawulsh Glacier. After climbing 8500-foot Vulcan above Slim’s River and the Alaska Highway as a reconnaissance, the Québecois Bernard Faure, Léopold Nadeau and André Robert returned to Whitehorse to get final permissions. Then under 85-pound packs they ascended Slim’s River for three days to reach the Kaskawulsh Glacier and another day to Base Camp at the junction of the South Arm and the main Kaskawulsh below Kaskawulsh Mountain. They set to work to climb a 10,000-foot peak west of Kaskawulsh Mountain, which they have officially proposed to name “Mount Wayne Smith”. They headed up Stairway Glacier which descends to the north on the west side of their peak. There were weak snow bridges and unstable séracs. After many hours they gained the arête, which was icy and covered with unstable snow. They reached the top on July 13. After the descent by the same route, they returned to camp after 26 hours. Several days later they ascended the South Arm to climb the 10,000-foot peak southeast of Mount Stephen Leacock. They gained the col to the west and continued over a high point along the ice ridge to the top.

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