American Alpine Jounrna and Accidents in North American Climbing

North America, Canada, Yukon Territory, Mounts Gibson, Wates, Mccoubrey, Above Steele Glacier

  • Climbs And Expeditions
  • Climb Year:
  • Publication Year: 1973

Mounts Gibson, Wates, McCoubrey, Above Steele Glacier. In early July John Tuthill, Jim Santos, Merry Farnum, Cathy Putnam and Chip Morgan, led by Tom Lyman with Jürg Hofer and me as whippers-in, were dropped by helicopter on the east side of the Steele Glacier, just above the old main camp of the 1967 Centennial Expedition. We all climbed the west summit of Mount Gibson (9810 feet) from the northwest and a day or two later made a new route to its main summit from the col between it and the west summit. There were avalanching conditions on the usual route up the north ridge. We traversed the west summit on the descent. Mount Wates, just beyond, was a long slog through softish snow around a great many crevasses. We also went up the Foster Glacier and the more energetic, Lyman, Morgan, Santos and Tuthill, climbed Mount McCoubrey (10,250 feet) from the northwest for the first (and possibly the last) time; this was steep and very rotten.

I. Drummond Rennie, M.D.

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