American Alpine Jounrna and Accidents in North American Climbing

North America, Canada, Yukon Territory, Mount Logan

  • Climbs And Expeditions
  • Climb Year:
  • Publication Year: 1973

Mount Logan. On June 10 Bruce Gilbert, Paul Swift, Dick Folta and I were landed at about 8900 feet on the Quintino Sella Glacier. By June 16 Camp IV A was established in the séracs above King Col. However, our push toward the plateau on June 18 was thwarted by mishaps, including falling into crevasses. Not wishing to push our luck further, we decided to return to Camp II at 12,700 feet and attempt the route shown on our map as the one pioneered by the 1925 first-ascent party. By June 26 we had located Camp IV B at 16,100 feet on the plateau. On June 29 we reached the AINA research camp site. After waiting out the weather for a day, we made our summit “dash” of 21 round-trip hours, arriving at the top on July 1 in calm, clear, mild weather and a beautiful late evening sun. We discovered when we arrived at Kluane that what our map had marked as the first-ascent route was inaccurate. We had actually turned back from the standard route and perhaps pioneered a new route up the headwall between Queen Peak and the peak to the west.

Malcolm Ulrich, Unaffiliated

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