American Alpine Jounrna and Accidents in North American Climbing

North America, United States, Colorado, Mount Alice, East Wall

  • Climbs And Expeditions
  • Climb Year:
  • Publication Year: 1973

Mount Alice, East Wall. The route first climbed by Jack Turner and me on July 8 and 9 ascends the 1200-foot east wall of Mount Alice in Rocky Mountain National Park. It is the continuation above and below the left of two parallel white vertical streaks three-quarters of the way up the left side of the face. The first half follows dihedrals directly up slabs with a mixture of aid and free climbing. The ledge that bisects the climb halfway up provides a good bivouac spot. The second half ascends directly up vertical and overhanging rock. A surprising amount of free climbing was done. We used mostly nuts. The few pitons were needed because of dirt-filled cracks. No bolts were placed. This is comparable to the best of the Longs Peak Diamond routes. NCCS V, F8, A3.

Robert D. Culp

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