AAC Publications - http://publications.americanalpineclub.org

North America, United States, Wyoming, Tetons, Grand Teton, North Ridge, Simpleton's Pillar

Grand Teton, North Face, Simpleton’s Pillar. June 16-17 Jeff Lowe made an important new variation on the north face of the Grand Teton on an early season solo climb. In general the route follows the first section of the standard north-face route, then, ascending the buttress or pillar of rock which rises to the left of the First Ledge, it meets the east ridge at the prominent hump in the snowfield. Lowe left the small ledges below the standard chimney leading onto the First Ledge and followed a snow- and ice-filled chimney leading up and somewhat to the left (east) for several hundred feet until it became possible to leave the gully for the pillar itself. Two right-leaning dihedrals traverse the face of the pillar. The lower one was used and followed to its western end, where a short but steep wall led to a left-trending crack system. Lowe followed this crack system until near the top of the pillar it rounded the left corner of the pillar and became more of a ledge. Some easy 3rd-class leads then took Lowe to the hump on the east ridge and the junction with that route. This remarkable climb traversed considerable new ground on the much-climbed north face and was rated by Jeff Lowe as IV, F8.