American Alpine Jounrna and Accidents in North American Climbing

North America, United States, Idaho, Finger of Fate, Sawtooth Range

  • Climbs And Expeditions
  • Climb Year:
  • Publication Year: 1973

Finger of Fate, Sawtooth Range. Dick Dorworth and I made this new route in August. We followed several small open-books on a dihedral 75 feet to the right of the existing route, which goes up the prominent right-facing open-book. The first 75 feet are third-class scambling to just below and left of a small clump of trees. Here, on a large ledge, we roped up and started the climb in earnest. Moving left off the ledge and around a corner, the first pitch follows a small right-facing open-book which runs to an overhang 100 feet above the belayer. The overhang can be climbed (probably F9) or it can be circumvented by moving some ten feet to the left into a small jam-crack. If you follow this alternative, you have to traverse right again over the overhang. The pitch ends 10 feet above the overhang. The second pitch follows a jam-crack straight up for 25 feet; then you stay to the left and follow small right-facing open-books to the top of a large flake 160 feet above the belayer. Pitch three follows an easy crack straight above the belayer to a large ramp. From here there are several ways to the top. Our route followed a squeeze chimney above the first half of the climb, which ends at the bottom of the summit block. You tunnel beneath the summit block to the back side of the pinnacle. The summit is easily attained via the right side of the block. We used only nuts. NCCS F8.

Lance Poulsen, Unaffiliated

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