American Alpine Jounrna and Accidents in North American Climbing

North America, United States, Utah, P 7700, North Face

  • Climbs And Expeditions
  • Climb Year:
  • Publication Year: 1973

Moses, Canyonlands National Park. One of the last great desert towers, this one discreetly hidden in remote Taylor Canyon east of the Green River, was climbed October 26. Lin Ottinger, Moab tour guide, had long known of it under the name “Moses,” its curious shape resembling the image of the desert leader of history. Eric Bj0rnstad and I had examined the 500-plus-foot tower in 1970 during the climb of “Zeus,” then climbed the overhanging first pitch a year later, only to become stalled by a heat wave. With a solid base camp resembling a safari, with the jeep, VW bus, tents, assorted friends and a kennel of three hungry dogs the climb had to be a success this time. Our timing was perfect, for downpours preceded and followed the climb. Our party was Jim Galvin, Thom Nephew, Greg Markov, Eric Bjørnstad, and I. The climbing was largely careful aid on the wingate sandstone, with three “super-solid” hanging belays featured. NCCS V, F6, A3. Total 102 pitons, 4 nuts and 48 bolts used. The climb eats large numbers of 1¼? 1½? and 2? pitons. Next party bring 10 nuts and hangers for ¼? studs, 5 nuts and hangers for ?? studs.

Fred Beckey

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