American Alpine Jounrna and Accidents in North American Climbing

North America, United States, Utah, Moses, Canyonlands National Park

  • Climbs And Expeditions
  • Climb Year:
  • Publication Year: 1973

Kerckhoff Dome. Near Shaver Lake, a year-round road passes within a mile of little-known Kerckhoff Dome. Huge penstocks bring energy to the Big Creek power station and the tramway used in their construction provides a quick and brush-free access. A year ago Jim Stuart photographed the rock and persuaded Fred Beckey to take a closer look. Fred, Joe Kiskis and I reconnoitered the first few pitches of clean solid granite. A feeling of guilt because Jim was not with us prompted an early descent. However, our next rendezvous in January 1973 lacked Fred, but this time we three completed the 500-foot route. The face is split by a long continuous fissure and capped at the top by a radically leaning arch. At the base of the wall, a squeeze chimney and an improbable traverse left around a bulge leads to a pedestal. Above, the route goes behind a blade-like flake to a belay beneath a chockstone in the chimney system. Two leads of jamming and stemming attain the beginning of the curving arch. Unfortunately the arch required aid; many thin wired nuts proved useful in the remaining two leads. No bongs were needed and a selection of 20 pitons is ample, augmented with many chocks. NCCS III, F8, Al.

Greg Donaldson

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