American Alpine Jounrna and Accidents in North American Climbing

North America, United States, California, Sierra Nevada, Fuller Buttes, Southeast Face

  • Climbs And Expeditions
  • Climb Year:
  • Publication Year: 1973

Fuller Buttes, Southeast Face. The Fuller Buttes are located some 50 miles east of north fork on the Mammoth Pool road. A short distance past the Jackass Creek bridge, a logging spur leads down to within a quarter of a mile of the summit. Approach the dome by hiking down along the east side to the base of a flake. Many hundreds of feet above is a right-facing open-book, which begins as a chimney and narrows as it curves upward out of sight. The flake and open-book comprise the route. A short awkward chimney on the right side of the flake gains a third-class ledge. From the high point of this ledge, a bolt ladder connects the route to the crack system above. Above the bolt ladder, the route is virtually all free until the crack in the dihedral narrows. As the angle eases, a horn-like flake provides an exit from the open-book to the face on the left, and two short pitches complete the climb. The ladder contains several bat-hook holes which require 3/16? hooks, and we used 12 bongs up to 4?. The climb was completed in May by Fred Beckey, Jim Stuart, Walt Vennum, and me. NCCS IV, F8, A2.

Greg Donaldson

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