American Alpine Jounrna and Accidents in North American Climbing

North America, United States, California, Sierra Nevada, Stone House Buttress, Jeanne Neale Route

  • Climbs And Expeditions
  • Climb Year:
  • Publication Year: 1973

Stone House Buttress, Jeanne Neale Route. Our first attempt of this route on February 12 was cut short by an unfortunate fall by a young lass on another route. Dan Hurd and I descended to help on what was to be an exciting rescue. March 4 found us again at the base of the southeast face of Stone House Buttress in the Tuttle Creek area. Climbing begins just left of an obvious, large triangular flake. Unprotected climbing leads to a jam-crack which ends on top of a small flake. From a bolt, traverse down and right, nail a groove and crack up the left of an overhang and then dogleg right. The first pitch ends on the sloping floor of a flared overhanging chimney visible from below. Proceed up the chimney via difficult climbing using a bit of aid at the top. Belay in slings from a bolt left of the overhang. Mixed climbing leads left, then straight up to a small ledge with a bush. A bolt protects a difficult move to another small ledge. Wander up and right to the only comfortable belay on the climb. Traverse right and enter a dihedral with a huge overhang at its top. Two long mixed pitches ending in sling belays ascend the dihedral and turn the overhang on the left. Above, climb the left of two cracks to a belay at a dead tree. One more pitch leads to the unroping spot. A few hundred feet of scrambling lead to the summit which we reached on the afternoon of the second day. We took 40 pitons including 4-2?, 3-2½?, 2-3?, 1-4?, and only 4 horizontals. NCCS IV, F8, A2.

David Boyd, Unaffiliated

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