American Alpine Jounrna and Accidents in North American Climbing

North America, United States, California, Sierra Nevada, Mount Dragtooth, Northwest Arête

  • Climbs And Expeditions
  • Climb Year:
  • Publication Year: 1973

Mount Dragtooth, Northeast Arête. When one views the Sawtooth Ridge from the vicinity of Bridgeport, the prominent northeast arête stands out on Mount Dragtooth. In closer views a classic line is seen directly up its northeast face in a dihedral. The line has attracted climbers, but there is something intimidating about it. Three rappel points were found atop the first pitch, but nothing further. On June 16, 1971, Reed Cundiff and I completed the route. The first pitch approaches the face of the arête from the left side and ascends obvious cracks and chimneys (F6) to ledges. The second pitch (F7) leads to a belay spot just left of the dihedral. The third (F8) ascends 150 feet of joyous jam crack; the next continues until the increasing steepness of the wall forces nailing. A blocky traverse left leads to an open-book or trough, from which one can exit right to easier climbing, or climb an exhilarating jam crack (F9) straight up. NCCS IV, F9, A2.

Jack Miller

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