American Alpine Jounrna and Accidents in North American Climbing

North America, United States, California, Sierra Nevada, Junction Peak, North Buttress

  • Climbs And Expeditions
  • Climb Year:
  • Publication Year: 1973

Junction Peak, North Buttress. A late winter attempt on the north buttress of Junction Peak by John Rupley and me was frustrated by stormy conditions, although the long trek via Kearsarge Pass brought us to the foot of serious climbing. The buttress is a classic in views from the north, but as a climb it is pleasant for only the first few pitches. We returned to make the ascent on June 17, reaching the summit just before twilight. Frost-shattered rock made two pitches “horror problems,” not to be recommended for an encore. Our general line was closely west of the buttress crest. Near the middle of the route some solid pitches spurred us onward again to the last “bad” pitch, where I placed two bolts, for pitons and nuts simply would not warrant safety. NCCS IV, F7.

Fred Beckey

This AAJ article has been reformatted into HTML. Please contact us if you spot an error.