American Alpine Jounrna and Accidents in North American Climbing

North America, United States, Alaska, Colonel Foster, East Face

  • Climbs And Expeditions
  • Climb Year:
  • Publication Year: 1973

Colonel Foster, East Face. The main attraction of this wall is that it is quite likely the largest on Vancouver Island—about 3300 feet high. It was climbed in September by Fred Douglas, Paul Starr and me by a buttress leading to the highest peak of the many-summited massif. Rock was fairly good and generally easier than had been expected, with trivial aid. Only one bivouac was required. This peak, however, is a long, complex and demanding climb by any known route. (First visited in 1968 by Mike Walsh solo!) It required the balance of that day to get off the beast. Other buttresses on the north part of this wall may offer sustained difficulties on good rock.

Richard R. Culbert

This AAJ article has been reformatted into HTML. Please contact us if you spot an error.