American Alpine Jounrna and Accidents in North American Climbing

North America, United States, Alaska, Mount Huntington, South Ridge

  • Climbs And Expeditions
  • Climb Year:
  • Publication Year: 1973

Mount Huntington, South Ridge. An attempt in early July to climb the entire south ridge was an utter failure. Rotten sugar snow without any base prevailed due to the lack of the normal spring thaw. Avalanching was considerable. However, we did learn about all approaches to the southern side of the mountain. Basically there are two approaches. We started from a good landing area on the Ruth Glacier, southwest of Mount Dickey. By crossing a low col to the south of Peace Peak, we gained easy access to the south end of the Rooster Comb. There most of a badly broken icefall may be passed on the north side via a narrow ramp, at least in early season. Later it would be exceedingly difficult, but then climbing on the peaks would not be so threatened by heavy avalanching. A more feasible approach is to land on the upper Tokositna near the northeast ridge of Hunter, where Roberts landed. One has immediate access to Hunter and to the west ridge of Huntington. The south side of Huntington may be gained by climbing a low-angle ramp on the north side of the dangerous icefall. The ramp is separated by a few rope-lengths from a moderate gully that leads to the cirque formed by the west and south ridges. Personnel: Skip Hamilton, Vladimir Farkas, Mike Yokell, Mike Parker, Jeb Schenck.

Jeb Schenck, Unaffiliated

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