American Alpine Jounrna and Accidents in North American Climbing

Asia, Pakistani-Afghan Frontier, Urgent East Attempt, Wakhan

  • Climbs And Expeditions
  • Climb Year:
  • Publication Year: 1972

Urgent East Attempt, Wakhan. We had bad luck on our second attempt on Urgent East when on July 26 Jorge Matas fell into a crevasse near Camp II and was killed. We abandoned the climb to return to Spain as quickly as possible. Our first attempt on the unclimbed 22,704-foot peak took us to within 550 feet of the top. On the northern slopes of Urgent East, we made four camps, at 14,750, 16,906, 19,000 and 21,325 feet. From Camp IV we traversed west below and to the north of the summit of Shayoz Zom to a point at 22,150 feet between Shayoz Zom and Urgent East, but we had to return to Base Camp because of bad weather and to regain strength. The other members of our party were Manuel Martín, César Comas, Miguel Lusilla and I.

JOSÉ PAYTUBI, Club Excursionista de Gracia, Barcelona

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