AAC Publications - http://publications.americanalpineclub.org

Asia, Pakistani-Afghan Frontier, Nicola II Chain, Wakhan

Nicola II Chain, Wakhan. An expedition of the Rome section of the Club Alpino Italiano made three first ascents in the Nicola II chain in the Wakhan. The leader was Carlo Alberto Pinelli, accompanied by Dr. Franco Cravino, Maurizio Speziale, Bruno Marsili, Luigi Pieruccini, Signorina Paola Segre and the Afghan Zaher Amam. They ascended to the head of the Dara-Issik to place Base Camp on August 4 at 15,750 feet on the left bank of the glacial moraine. Within a couple of days they had camp below a semi-circle of peaks which they named: on the east “Koh-i-Pamir” (20,670 feet), on the north “Koh-i-Marco Polo” (20,256 feet) and on the west “Koh-i-Hilal” (20,607 feet; “Half- Moon Peak”). On August 7 Cravino, Speziale and Pinelli climbed “Koh-i-Pamir” by way of the northeast ridge, finding the last 1000 feet very difficult with cornices and steep slopes. On August 10 Pinelli, Speziale and Amam climbed “Koh-i-Marco Polo”, which took 17 hours. On August 14 Cravino and Pinelli ascended “Koh-i-Hilal”, which they described as very long, difficult and complex.