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Asia, Pakistani-Afghan Frontier, Udren Zom and Shakhaur

Udren Zorn and Shakhaur. The expedition of the Biella section of the Club Alpino Italiano climbed these two peaks, neither a first ascent; they rise on the Pakistani-Afghan frontier above the Wakhan corridor. After ascending the Udren Gol, they set up Base Camp at 15,100 feet below the southwest face of Udren Zom. The attack began on June 14. Camp I was placed at 18,700 feet on June 17 and Camp II at 20,350 feet on June 21. Guido Machetto had already reconnoitered the way to the col between Udred Zom and Shakhaur. In continuing lovely weather, on June 21 Renzo Coda and Rino Prina set out on perfect cramponing snow and nine hours later got to the summit of Udren Zom (23,396 feet). On June 22 Miller Rava, Ettore Gremmo and the expedition’s leader Giovanni Antoniotti set out for Shakhaur. A couple of hours later Antoniotti had to quit because of a strained back. The other two continued to the summit (23,347 feet), finding steep ice below the top. The next day, Machetto, Beppe Re and Mario Fumagalli climbed Udren Zom. The weather turned bad and prevented an attempt on Koh-i-Nadir Shah. Also with them were deputy leader Ezio Buscaglia and Dr. Giovanni Veronese.