American Alpine Jounrna and Accidents in North American Climbing

Asia, Pakistani-Afghan Frontier, Peaks above Darban Glacier

  • Climbs And Expeditions
  • Climb Year:
  • Publication Year: 1972

Peaks Above Darban Glacier. A six-man German expedition led by Eggert Keller was in the Darband Glacier region. On June 26 Peter Bienek climbed Q6 (20,475 feet) and M9 (20,538 feet) from the Camp I above the Darband Glacier. On July 4 Keller and Bienek climbed Darband-Udren Zom (20,598 feet; Wala Peak 133) from the south and again on July 5 it was climbed by Reinholz Kölzner and Michael Kunze. On July 23 Bienek climbed Darband Zom (23,688 feet) from the upper Darband Glacier. On August 3 Bienek and Keller made the only first ascent of the expedition: P 6593 or Dingo Zom (21,631 feet; Wala Peak 113) by the east ridge. Kölzner, Kunze, Willi Drevenstedt and Reinhard Nies repeated this climb on August 18.

THOMAS TRÜBSWETTER, Deutscher Alpenverein

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