American Alpine Jounrna and Accidents in North American Climbing

Asia, Pakistani-Afghan Frontier, Noshaq, Noshaq to Gumbaz-e-Safed Traverse

  • Climbs And Expeditions
  • Climb Year:
  • Publication Year: 1972

Noshaq, Noshaq to Gumbaz-e-Safed Traverse. We were 34 people: ten climbers conducting 24 of the guide Bellefon’s clients. On August 17 Françoise Algoud, André Calderer and Patrice de Bellefon climbed the west ridge of Gumbaz-e-Safed (22,310 feet) with two high camps. On the 19th Monique Rouch, Alain Blassier, Guy Panozzo and I reached Noshaq’s summit (24,580 feet) by the northwest spur with camps at 17,725, 20,350, and 22,650 feet). On the 20th Bellefon and Philippe Sol climbed Noshaq by the same route. On August 21 I made a solo traverse from the ridges of Noshaq to Gumbaz-e-Safed. I descended the northern spur along séracs with a delicate piolet-ancre stretch of 1650 feet. From the Potocki Col I followed the south ridge of Gumbaz-e-Safed and descended the west ridge.

LOUIS AUDOUBERT, Club Alpin Français

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