American Alpine Jounrna and Accidents in North American Climbing
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Asia, Pakistani-Afghan Frontier, Noshaq from the South, Ghul Lasht Zom East, Aspe Safed

  • Climbs And Expeditions
  • Climb Year:
  • Publication Year: 1972

Noshaq from the South, Ghul Lasht Zom East, Aspe Safed. We three Austrians, Wolfgang Stefan, Dieter Eger and I, traveled from Peshawar to Shagrom from June 2 to 6, as far as Kuragh by landrover and jeep via the Lowari Pass and Chitral and over the Zani Pass with eight porters. In the next three days we moved to Base Camp at 15,100 feet on the Upper Tirich Glacier below Istor-o-Nal. On July 11 and 12 we set up a high camp at 18,050 feet below Ghul Lasht Zom. On the 13th all three climbed Ghul Lasht Zom East (21,960 feet) by the east ridge. On July 15 we climbed Wala Peak 68 (20,900 feet) over glaciers from the north; this peak lies southeast of Ghul Lasht Zom and was a first ascent. From July 17 to 22 we set up an advanced base (16,750 feet) and two high camps (20,650 and 23,200 feet) for the ascent of Noshaq over the westernmost south ridge. On July 23 all three climbed Noshaq Myani (middle peak; c. 24,280 feet) and Stefan and Eger went on to the main summit (24,580 feet). The next day Stefan and Eger climbed Aspe Safed (21,349 feet) by the northeast ridge from the lower high camp. From July 27 to 31 we returned from Base Camp to Peshawar. The route on Noshaq was a new one. We met no difficulties on the glaciers thanks to favorable conditions. Between 21,650 and 23,150 feet we had rather loose rock with snowy bits in-between but few problems.

HARALD NAVÉ, Österreichische Alpenklub

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