American Alpine Jounrna and Accidents in North American Climbing

Asia, Pakistani-Afghan Frontier, Attempt on Tirich Mir

  • Climbs And Expeditions
  • Climb Year:
  • Publication Year: 1972

Attempt on Tirich Mir. The Italians Riccardo Varvelli, leader, Pier Franco Giraudi, Paolo Mosca, Giuseppe and Agostino Perrod failed to climb Tirich Mir by its west ridge. Leaving Shagrom (9200 feet) on July 17, they set up Base Camp (15,100 feet) on the 19th, Camp I (18,375 feet) on the 20th, Camp II (19,775 feet) on the 21st and Camp III (21,100 feet) on the 22nd. They had gained 11,900 feet in six days! It is little wonder that Giuseppe Perrod fell unconscious. More remarkable is that he survived thanks to being carried back to Base Camp. Giraudi and Varvelli returned on August 1 to Camp III. They both climbed over Little Dirgol II and Giraudi continued on alone to another summit along the ridge of about 23,000 feet, Akhar Peak.

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