American Alpine Jounrna and Accidents in North American Climbing

Asia, Pakistani-Afghan Frontier, Tirich Mir

  • Climbs And Expeditions
  • Climb Year:
  • Publication Year: 1972

Tirich Mir. Shunzo Masue led the 14-man Ishikawa Prefecture Section of the Japanese Alpine Club expedition. The notorious southwest ridge of Tirich Mir (25,290 feet) was their first objective, but because of avalanche danger they changed to the west ridge over S Glacier Peak. From Camp V in the col (21,325 feet) north and beyond S Glacier Peak, Shinji Sawamura and Akio Okamoto climbed the main peak on July 10 after a bivouac at 23,625 feet. From the broad top they descended a little to the west and bivouacked again at 24,950 feet. There they found bleached bones which when studied in Japan later proved to be of mammals. They reached Camp V at eleven P.M.

ICHIRO YOSHIZAWA, A.A.C. and Japanese Alpine Club

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