Asia, Pakistan, Awi Zom, Buni Zom Group, Hindu Raj

Publication Year: 1972.

Awi Zom, Buni Zom Group, Hindu Raj. The Cologne Hindu Kush Expedition climbed in the Buni Zom group. We divided into two parties after starting up the Phargam Gol. Those who went north turned to the untrodden Phargam Glacier from Base Camp at 10,600 feet just above Phargam. Camp I was on the foot of the glacier at 15,100 feet above a steep step and Camp II near the head of the glacier at 17,400 feet. Our chief objective was Awi Zom (21,273 feet), second highest in the Buni Zom group. From a high camp at 19,350 feet south of the summit, on September 3 Herbert Hoven, Christoph Miczka and Albert Wachten climbed the peak by the west ridge. From a high camp at 19,500 feet on the ridge west of Awi Zom, on July 31 the same three plus Georg Holtmann traversed the ridge west of them over P 5970, P 6010, P 6020, Pharmgam II or P 6086 to Pharmgam I or P 6103 (19,587, 19,718, 19,751, 19,948, 19,964 and 20,023 feet respectively). These lie on the ridge east of Buni Zom IV. The southern party meanwhile did a thorough reconnaissance of the Sohnyan Glacier basin. Sohnyan Zom (18,455 feet) was climbed twice: on August 24 up the northern face and down the southwest ridge by Anno Diemer, my wife Erika and me and on August 27 via the northeast ridge by Heinz-Dieter Böhme, Diemer, and Manfred Heintz. Erika and I climbed the west ridge of the 19,062-foot peak between Shupel Zom East and West, which we called Golen Zom. Diemer, Heintz, Erika and I climbed a 17,389-foot peak on a ridge which extends into the basin from Sohnyan Zom. We did not climb P 6100 (20,013 feet), which seems to have a feasible route on the north face.

ROBERT WAGNER, Deutscher Alpenverein