American Alpine Jounrna and Accidents in North American Climbing

Asia, Pakistan, Buni Zom Group

  • Climbs And Expeditions
  • Climb Year:
  • Publication Year: 1972

Buni Zom Group. The Oyama High School Old Boys Alpine Club consisted of Hirotaka Saegi, leader, Tadashi Sugita and Toshinori Kiuchi. They climbed to the Khorabohrt Glacier from the Phargam Gol via a 1000-foot-high waterfall, which was easier than they had expected. On June 23 all three stood on the south peak of Buni Zom (20,407 feet) for the first time. On the 29th Saegi and Kiuchi repeated this ascent. The same two made the second ascent of Buni Zom North (20,795 feet). They climbed Ectha Zom II (19,600 feet) on July 3, Khorabohrt Zom (19,193 feet) on the 4th and Buri Zom (19,377 feet) on the 8th. The latter is the peak southeast of the waterfall. They were severely criticized in Japan for climbing without permission.

ICHIRO YOSHIZAWA, A.A.C. and Japanese Alpine Club

This AAJ article has been reformatted into HTML. Please contact us if you spot an error.