Asia, Pakistan, Chongra Peak, Nanga Parbat Group

Publication Year: 1972.

Chongra Peak, Nanga Parbat Group. The expedition of the Gango Tohkoh-Kai consisted of Masahiko Kaizu, leader, Kiyoshi Hara, Tamiya Takahashi and Kyuji Sakuma. The leader was on the 1970 reconnaissance to the Chungphar Glacier of the Chongra group. Base Camp was established at 12,150 feet near the uppermost of the little Rama lakes beside the Sachen Glacier. A supply dump was placed at 13,125 feet and a side glacier coming in from the south was reconnoitered. On July 26 Camp I was placed at 14,925 feet on Rama Peak’s southeast ridge. It was difficult to prepare the route beyond along the ice-snow-rock ridge. On August 14 the weather deteriorated and the climbers descended to Camp I but on the 16th Camp II was established after climbing over the top of Rama Peak (18,050 feet). After a struggle up the ice ridge, on August 19 they got a camp onto the ice plateau at 19,000 feet. On the 20th Kaizu, Hara and Takahashi bivouacked below the top and on the 21st stood at 9:30 on the summit of Chongra Peak (22,408 feet) and returned to the bivouac site. They descended in two days by a different route, the northeast ridge, climbing over a 20,000- foot rock peak.

ICHIRO YOSHIZAWA, A.A.C. and Japanese Alpine Club