American Alpine Jounrna and Accidents in North American Climbing

Asia, Pakistan, Nanga Parbat

  • Climbs And Expeditions
  • Climb Year:
  • Publication Year: 1972

Nanga Parbat. Sixteen Czechs, led by Ivan Galfy, made the fourth ascent of Nanga Parbat (26,660 feet) and the second by the Rakhiot route, which cost so many German and Sherpa lives before Hermann Buhl finally made his solo ascent in 1953. Hampered by bad weather, the Czechs were pinned down for three weeks in Camp IV on Rakhiot Peak. When the weather cleared on July 7, they established Camps V and VI, the latter on the Silbersattel. On July 11 Ivan Fiala and Michel Orolin climbed to the summit while others reached the southeast peak (24,925 feet) above the Silbersattel and the foresummit (25,760 feet) above the Bazhin Gap. (Information mostly from Mountain 18, November 1971.)

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