Ogre, Karakoram. We spent considerable time searching for a route up the south face of the Ogre, but due to objective dangers, this face was eventually rejected and we trekked three days to reconnoitre the north face. A feasible route was discovered but because of the very early monsoon we were unable to get above 17,500 feet. The first ascent of Razaqi Peak (18,320 feet) on the west side of the Biafo Glacier was made by Dr. Bill Hidayat, John Gregory. Trev Wright, Dave Marshall, Clive Rowland and me along with Captain Razaq, our most cooperative liaison officer. Also of the party were Dr. John Rousseau and George Hibbert.
DON MORRISON, Climbers' Club (England)