This peak turned back a British expedition in 1962 and a Japanese one in 1965, on which climbers were killed. This year, a 13-man Polish group climbed a direct route up the south face from the Pumarikish Glacier to reach the south ridge, which was followed to the top (25,760 feet) from Camp IV at 23,500 feet. On August 26, the leader Andrzej Zawada, Zygmunt Heinrich, Jan Stryczynski, and Ryszard Szafirski reached the top, having bivouacked with great discomfort 250 feet below the summit. Jan Franczuc was killed when he fell into a crevasse above Camp III.