Asia, India—Kashmir, Nun and Kun

Publication Year: 1972.

Nun and Kun. Of these twin peaks, Nun (23,410 feet), first climbed by French Mme Claude Kogan and Swiss Pierre Vittoz in 1953, is much more difficult than Kun (22,250 feet) first climbed in 1914. They were climbed this year by an expedition of the Indian National Defense Academy, Kadakvasla, Maharashtra, consisting of five officers, fourteen cadets, and two instructors, with Flight Lieutenant K.P. Venu- gopal, leader and Captain S.S. Singh, deputy. Base Camp was established at 15,600 feet at the head of the Suru valley below Tanaka Peak (19,000 feet) on June 14. They approached from the north, not from the south as previous expeditions had. On Kun, Camp I was at 17,300 feet and Camp III at 21,000 feet. Four made the climb to the summit on June 25 and two other groups on June 26 and 27 brought the total to 15. Camp I on Nun was established on June 26 at 16,700 feet. After a storm beat back an attempt in early July, Camp II was reestablished on July 15 and Camp III was placed on the east ridge (a new route) at 22,000 feet on July 18. After waiting out a day of storm, on the 20th S.S. Singh, Phenjo, instructor from the Himalayan Mountaineering Institute, and cadets M.S. Gill (18) and K.S. Rawal (17) climbed to the summit using much fixed rope. The cadets were badly frostbitten. On July 2 P.T. Joshi, R. Kochhan, B.P.S. Bhalla, Flight Lieutenant A.S. Krishnamurthy and Sherpas Thondup and Dorje climbed Tanaka.

KAMAL K. GUHA, Himalayan Club