Asia, Nepal, Gangapurna

Publication Year: 1972.

Gangapurna. A second Japanese expedition to Gangapurna was from the Nagano Mountaineering Association and led by Kiyoshi Shimizu. They came from the south via the Kodi Khola and Sanctuary and climbed the west ridge. On October 15, Shimizu, Takeshi Akahane and the Sherpa Girme Dorje reached the summit (24,457 feet) from Camp IV at 23,300 feet. On October 16 at six P.M. the higher camps failed to make radio contact with Camp II. On October 17 Girme Dorje and Pemba Norbu went down to Camp II to investigate. On October 18 at eight A.M. Girme Dorje reported by radio to Camp III from the site of Camp II that Camp II had completely disappeared, presumably swept away by an avalanche on the afternoon of October 16. Six people were in Camp II and presumably killed: Japanese Iwao Ogiso, Dr. Hirotaka Sasakawa and Masano Nakoyama and Sherpas Ang Pemba, Ang Gyalzen and Nawang Chottar. After making his report, Girme Dorje said that he and Pemba Norbu would return to Camp III. The Japanese in Camp III told him not to do so since the route between Camps II and III was liable to be swept by avalanches. Girme Dorje and Pemba Norbu were not seen or heard of again. It is presumed that they were swept away by an avalanche between Camps II and III or that they fell into a crevasse.

MICHAEL J. CHENEY, Himalayan Club