American Alpine Jounrna and Accidents in North American Climbing

South America, Chile, Nevado Juncal, Portillo District

  • Climbs And Expeditions
  • Climb Year:
  • Publication Year: 1972

Nevado Juncal, Portillo district. This very high mountain, located on the Chilean-Argentinian border, some 15 miles south of the ski resort of Portillo, was visited by a party of two members of the mountain club of the Universidad de Chile at Santiago, Francisco Vivanco and José Carrasco, and Police Major Pedro Rosende. They approached the mountain from the north, via the high valley of Monos de Agua and placing three camps, reached the main summit of Nevado Juncal (6110 meters or 20,046 feet) on January 7, 1972, with all their equipment. Since their aim was to attempt some of the various summits of the mountain, they placed a camp on the main summit and the following day, Rosende and Vivanco tackled the southern Chilean summit (5910 meters or 19,390 feet), which had been ascended in 1965 by a joint Chilean-Japanese party. The second ascent was accomplished after dropping some 1200 feet from the main summit and also scaling the last steep 150 feet, all on ice. The top was reached in the late afternoon and the two climbers did not return to the high camp until midnight. There still remain two other apparently unclimbed summits in the massif. (From El Mercurio, Santiago).

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