South America, Southern Peru, Cayangate IV, North Face, Cordillera Vilcanota

Publication Year: 1972.

Cayangate IV, North Face, Cordillera Vilcanota. Our expedition was composed of Dr. Pierre Barnola, Pierre Chapoutot, Paul Giroud, Jean Jacques and Martine Rolland, my wife Elizabeth and me. We accomplished our chief objective, a new route on the north face of Cayangate IV (20,230 feet).* It was a magnificent 3300-foot ice climb, comparable to the great routes on the Italian face of Mont Blanc. We climbed a steep, difficult icefall, which ended on the summit ridge some 650 feet below the summit. All of us reached that point and established Camp III there on August 23 after some days of route preparation. On August 24, after having overcome the principal difficulties, we had to turn back some 200 yards from the top because of bad weather. On August 25 solo and on August 26 with Chapoutot and me, Giroud climbed an isolated 17,000-foot rock peak which dominated Base Camp and lay west of Cayangate IV. It was rather difficult climbing on bad rock but it gave us a fine view of Cayangate and Ausangate.

JEAN-PAULZUANON, Grenoble-Universite-Montagne

*Monsieur Zuanon wrote that they had climbed Cayangate I but he was also kind enough to send us a photograph of the peak, from which it becomes apparent that they were on Cayangate IV. The confusion may well have come about because Cayangate IV is the highest peak in the group; the peaks are numbered from north to south rather than in order of their altitude. — Editor.