American Alpine Jounrna and Accidents in North American Climbing

South America, Southern Peru, Japuma and Four Nearby First Ascents, Cordillera Carabaya

  • Climbs And Expeditions
  • Climb Year:
  • Publication Year: 1972

Japuma and Four Nearby First Ascents, Cordillera Carabaya. Mollie Porter, Barbara Spark, Carol McNeill, Janet Richards and I climbed in the Cordillera Carabaya. We hired llamas to carry our gear the six-hour walk from Macusani to Base Camp southeast of Allinccapac and southwest of Chichiccapac. On August 13 we all climbed Japuma (18,141 feet) from the north. We made the following first ascents: “Orcco Ccahuac” (“Sentinel”; 17,500 feet) up the south side and down the west (“Minor”; 17,500 feet) via south face and west ridge by us all and “Curac” (“Major”; 17,800 feet) via east ridge and south face by Porter, McNeill, Spark and me both on August 16 (these three peaks lie from east to west on the ridge which extends west from Japuma); and “Muyu Muyu Orcco” (“Spiral Peak”; 17,000 feet; 1 mile north of Chichiccapac) by southwest ridge by Spark, Porter, Richards on August 20. Also on August 20 Carol McNeill and I climbed Triángulo (17,000 feet) from the west and Pirámide (17,400 feet) from the north. We were forced back on the southwest face of Chichiccapac (18,426 feet) by altitude sickness 800 feet from the top. All routes provided good mixed climbing.

KATE DILWORTH, Bangor (North Wales) Mountaineering Club

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