American Alpine Jounrna and Accidents in North American Climbing

South America, Southern Peru, Plateriyayoq and Palanganayoq Groups, Cordillera Urubamba

  • Climbs And Expeditions
  • Climb Year:
  • Publication Year: 1972

Plateriyayoq and Palanganayoq Groups, Cordillera Urubamba. Seven members of the London University Graduate Mountaineering Club (M. C. Avis, F. W. Barnes, D. C. Lindsey, M. Mason, W. A. Towlson, R. J. Woollett and I) spent ten days climbing from Base Camp in the Quebrada Pampaminas. Another English climbing party, J. Monks, M. Higgins and T. Welling shared the same Base Camp. From Cuzco we travelled by bus via Calca and Amparaes to Paucarpata, where we hired ponies for the four-day journey to Base Camp, which was established on August 7. On August 9 we made three first ascents. Parioq (15,700 feet; a mile north of Abra Platerivayoq) was climbed by Lindsey and me on sound granite along the east and then the north ridge and independently later on the same day by Mason, Barnes and Woollett. Awqa (15,500 feet; a mile north of Parioq) was climbed by Towlson and Avis using the east ridge to gain the southwest glacier and then via rock to the summit. Welling, Higgins and Monks meanwhile traversed the ridge containing Naranqa (15,500 feet; a mile east of Awqa). On August 14, while returning from an unsuccessful attempt on Punta de Lanzadera, Barnes, Lindsey, Towlson and I made the third ascent of Q’ente Oeste (16,650 feet), an ascent repeated on August 16 by Mason, Barnes, Woollett, Welling, Monks and Higgins. On August 16 Avis, Lindsey, Towlson and I made the first ascent of Altu Ñañu (15,900 feet; 1½ miles south of Abra Plateriyayoq) via the glacier to the east and up the rocky north ridge.

MICHAEL J. ESTEN, London University Graduate Mountaineering Club

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