South America, Peru–Cordilleras Huallanca, Huayhuash, and Raura, Rasac Oeste

Publication Year: 1972.

Rasac Oeste, Cordillera Huayhuash. Tiziano Nardella led an Italian expedition composed of Elena Bordogni, Giorgio Brianzi, Franco Gastaldelli, Gianluigi Marini and Tullio Sprechtenhauser. From Base Camp at Jahuacocha, they set up Camp I at Rasaccocha on July 24 and Camp II the next day at 16,400 feet below the very difficult west face of Rasac. The first 1150-foot step of the face was both hard and dangerous, threatened by cornices and séracs. On August 8 Gastaldelli, Brianzi, and the Peruvian porters Baldomero Harbaiza and Catalino Rocas established Camp III at 17,725 feet at the top of the first step and went on to climb to the summit of Rasac Oeste (18,700 feet) by its east face. This climb was repeated on August 14 by two others. The attack on the main summit of Rasac (19,817 feet) up very steep ice slopes failed.