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South America, Peru–Cordilleras Huallanca

Cordillera Huallanca. Our team of ten included climbers and doctors: Mario Guiliano Mainini, Desiderio Dottori, Renato Beretta, Mario Corsalini, Diomiro Mancini, Mario Moretti, Dr. Dino Checchia, Dr. Enzo Bianchini, Celso Salvetti and me as leader. Our climbing was constantly hindered by bad weather, but the whole party but me did manage to climb a virgin peak of 5205 meters (17,077 feet) by aneroid at the head of the Quebrada Nupacuta on August 12 (Condor-huay or Solitario? — Editor.) We are making a precise map of the region. The scientific work consisted of meteorology, botany, medical studies on members of the expedition and on the local population. I had to be evacuated with bronchial pneumonia (high-altitude pulmonary edema? — Editor) from Base Camp at 13,125 feet in the Quebrada Gara to Lima.

SERGIO MACCIò, Club Alpino Italiano