South America, Peru, Cordillera Blanca

Publication Year: 1972.

Cordillera Blanca. We organized a very light expedition, composed of Vincent Bourges and his wife, Michel Bertinoti, François Lespinasse, François Ucay, Veronique de Colombil, my wife and me. We left France with only 110 pounds of excess baggage and so were able to climb the following summits, alpine style: Pisco (c. 19,000 feet) by all on July 22 via the normal route; Yanapaccha (17,914 feet) by Bertinoti, J. Kelle, Ucay on July 17 via northwest face, a fine route with 50° slopes and difficult bergschrunds; Chopicalqui (20,998 feet) by all but Mme Bourge and Mme Kelle on August 29 via the normal (west ridge) route; Alpamayo (19,511 feet) by V. Bourges, Ucay, J. Kelle on August 17 via the normal (north ridge) route; Copa (20,351 feet) by Vincent and Pascale Bourges on August 27 via the normal route. We also attempted the northeast ridge of Chopicalqui but after two days of climbing gave up at 19,000 feet because of bad weather.

JACQUES KELLE, Club Alpin Français