AAC Publications - http://publications.americanalpineclub.org

South America, Peru–Cordillera Blanca, Alpamayo Attempt

Alpamayo Attempt. We four Canadians, Scipio Merler, Fips Broda, Jack Cade and I, attempted Alpamayo in early June, approaching it from Palo Seco and the new road being built to Safuna. That road should be ready in 1973, making it possible to drive to within three hours of a glacier camp at 16,600 feet, but in 1971 highway damage in the main valleys delayed approach, the weather was poor, the snow deep and unconsolidated. We reached the ridge between Alpamayo and Jancarurish at 18,000 feet, but because of conditions and lack of time decided against the glacier traverse and ascent of the couloir to the north ridge.