American Alpine Jounrna and Accidents in North American Climbing

South America, Peru–Cordillera Blanca, Pongos Group and Chopicalqui

  • Climbs And Expeditions
  • Climb Year:
  • Publication Year: 1972

Pongos Group and Chopicalqui. The German Naturfreunde (Friends of Nature) was led by Rolf Röcker and composed W. Weber, F. Wibmer, H. Güner, W. Hummel, Dr. Schwenkglenks, P. Schiml and me. We first climbed nearly all the peaks in the Pongos group from a high camp at 14,750 feet in the Quebrada Queshque. All members climbed Pongos Sur (18,737 feet) on June 3, a third ascent by a new route, the north ridge. On May 27 Wibmer and Hummel made the second ascent of Queshque (17,924 feet) by the south face. All other climbs were first ascents.* These were every peak on the ridge starting southwest from Pongos Sur: Karacuta (17,750 feet) via north face and P 5320 (17,454 feet) both on May 17 by Hummel, Fritz; Acoraju (17,149 feet) via north face, P 5190 (17,028 feet), P 5180 (16,995 feet) and P 5200 (17,061 feet) all three by southwest ridges on May 18 by Röcker, Weber; P 5100 (16,733 feet) via north face on June 7 by Fritz, Schiml; Acorumi Norte (16,697 via north face on May 14 by Röcker, Weber; P 5040 (16,536 feet) via west ridge on May 14 by Güner, Schiml; Acorumi Central (16,611 feet) via southwest ridge on May 14 by Schwenkglenks; Acorumi Sur (16,601 feet) via west ridge on May 15 by Hummel, Fritz; every peak south to north on the ridge north of Pongos Sur: P 5280 (17,323 feet), Cayacpunta (17,536 feet) and P 5315 (17,438 feet) by south ridges on May 25 by Hummel, Fritz, Wibmer, Röcker, Schiml; P 5250 (17,-225 feet) via west face on May 22 by Wibmer, Schiml; P 5320 (17,454 feet), P 5350 (17,553 feet) and P 5400 (17,717 feet) all by east ridges on May 21 by Hummel, Fritz; Jatunllacsha (18,520 feet) via southeast face on May 23 by Schiml, Hummel, Fritz, Wibmer and on May 26 by Schwenkglenks, Weber, Röcker, Güner; each peak except the southernmost on the ridge starting southwest from Queshque: P 5415 (17,766 feet) via east ridge on May 27 by Wibmer, Hummel, Röcker; P 5380 (17,651 feet), P 5420 (17,782 feet) and P 5335 (17,503 feet) by southeast faces on May 27 by Weber, Schiml; Mareteca (17,602 feet) via west ridge on May 17 by Wibmer, Schiml; P 5250 (17,225 feet) via west ridge on May 17 by Schwenkglenks; P 5360 (17,586 feet) and P 5380 (17,651 feet) via southwest faces on June 2 by whole party; and the peak that lies on a spur southeast of Queshque: P 5360 (17,586 feet) via west ridge on May 27 by Wibmer, Hummel, Röcker. Then we went to the central Cordillera Blanca, entering the Quebrada Ulta from Shilla. Base Camp was in the Quebrada Cancahua, a tributary of Ulta. Our attempt on Chopicalqui’s east ridge failed at a corniced ridge at 18,900 feet. We then made a second ascent of Chopicalqui’s southeast ridge, first climbed by the New Zealanders in 1969. We had four camps and bad snow conditions. The climb was made from July 1 to 5 by Weber, Röcker and me and from July 2 to 6 by Wibmer, Hummel and Schiml.

DIETRICH FRITZ, Deutsche Naturfreunde

*SeveraI of these had already been ascended. Giobbi climbed Jatunllacsha in the mid- 1960s. Loyacpani, the first snow-capped peak north of Pongos Sur, was climbed by Terborgh, Diamond, Jamanca on July 9, 1963—Evelio Echevarría.

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