Palcaraju Este and Copap Group. Although our expedition was away from Switzerland from May 22 to September 11, we climbed for only five weeks. We were Pierre-André Jaunin, Lucien Rentchnik, Michel Duport and I. After three weeks struggling with the Customs in Lima, we got to Huaraz and then left Vicos on June 19 for a two-day march up the Quebrada Honda to Base Camp at the foot of Chinchey at 13,600 feet. Our attempt on Chinchey during ten days of bad weather failed on July 1 in two feet of new snow and high winds some 500 feet below the summit. We turned to Palcaraju Este when the good weather returned and all four got to the summit (20,046 feet) on July 12. The principal difficulties were on the glacier that separates Toclliaraju from Palcaraju. We finished our climbing in the Copap group, where we climbed the four peaks directly south of Perlilla: Yanatsilca Norte and Sur (5579 and 5567 meters or 18,304 and 18,265 feet) on July 18, Condormina Sur‡ (5566 meters or 18,262 feet) on July 19 by its north ridge, and Condormina Norte (5551 meters or 18,212 feet) on July 20. The latter was the most interesting; we climbed it up flutes on the west face.

PHILIPPE STAUB, Club Alpin Suisse

‡First ascent by Hough and Turner, July 3, 1963. See A.A.J., 1964, p 215.