American Alpine Jounrna and Accidents in North American Climbing

North America, Greenland, French Expedition to Schweizerland, East Greenland

  • Climbs And Expeditions
  • Climb Year:
  • Publication Year: 1972

French Expedition to Schweizerland, East Greenland. Under the aegis of the Club Alpin Français I organized a second small expedition in August, 1970. Knowing the difficulties of getting into the Atter massif, which we failed to reach in 1969, we chose the mountains north-northeast of Angmagssalik. On August 7 we embarked on two small fishing boats at Kungmiut and after a three-hour voyage landed at the head of Tasilaq Kua Fjord. We climbed in the area east of the fjord and north between it and the junction of the Midgaard and 16th of September glaciers. We divided into two groups. Group A was Monique Larnoyer, Daniel Duchesne, Jacques Durville, Colette Gauthier, Pierre Chanel, Jean-Louis Morlot and I; Group B was Georges Petit, Marc Breuil, Bernard Certain, Monique Petitdidier, Lobow Kirzenecky and Steve Chanel. Group A made the following ascents (arranged from north to south): P 1730 (5676 feet) by rather difficult snow and ice east ridge on August 14; P 1350* (4429 feet) by rather difficult northeast rock ridge by Mlle Larnoyer and Morlot on August 10; P 1400 (4598 feet) by north ridge on August 11 ; P 1360 (4462 feet) by east ridge on August 12; P 1130* (3707 feet) and P 1180* (3871 feet) in a traverse from west to east on August 23. Group B climbed in the northern part of the region and made the following ascents: P 1850* (6070 feet) and P 1920* (6300 feet) just west of P 1730 on rather difficult snow and rock on August 14; P 1571* (5154 feet), P 1370* (4495 feet) and P 1450* (4758 feet), a rather difficult ice traverse just south of the junction of the Midgaard and 16th of September glaciers, on August 22. (First ascents are marked by asterisks.)

JACQUES ROUILLARD, Club Alpin Francais

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