American Alpine Jounrna and Accidents in North American Climbing

North America, Greenland, Staunings Alper

  • Climbs And Expeditions
  • Climb Year:
  • Publication Year: 1972

Staunings Alper. Our Lancaster University (England) climbing expedition, consisting of Jim Taylor, Bill Band, and me, was organised in conjunction with the Northern Universities Natural Sciences expedition led by Dr. G. Halliday, and three of the members of this expedition, Robin Todd, Dave Gibson, and John Surridge accompanied us for part of the time. We flew in to Scoresby Sund on August 1 and during a delay of four days, we three climbers and Todd made the first ascent of a 600m (1969-foot) peak above Lillefjord in Liverpool Land. We travelled by boat via Gurreholm to Nordost Bugt and walked up the western side of the Schuchert to the foot of the Roslin Glacier to find our supplies which had been dropped by the RAF. A temporary base camp was established at the junction of the Bjornbos and Saturn Glaciers, and on August 13, we crossed the Bjornbos, our objective being a fine peak (1850 meters or 6070 feet) at the head of the small glacier opposite Saturn. Taylor, Band and I climbed the east ridge and arrived at the summit to find a cairn, under which was a note saying that the peak had been climbed in 1960 by Sir John Hunt and party. They called it Karabinerbjerg. We continued along the east ridge to the summit of the next peak to find yet another cairn and underneath a note with the names of the four members of Dundee University who had climbed and called the peak Taurubjerg. On August 16, Band walked over the Roslin to establish contact with the two members of Halliday’s party who were to join us for the latter part of the expedition, and on the way he made the first ascent of “Yllis” (1800 meters or 5906 feet). From camp higher up on the Bjornbos, despite unpromising weather, Band, Taylor, Gibson and I set out for the head of the Orion Glacier, where most of the peaks are unclimbed. We climbed the east ridge of a 2400-meter (7874-foot) peak at the head of the glacier which we called “Albert”. The night was spent further along the ridge and next morning, we continued climbing the ridge to arrive at the top of a snowcapped peak which we called “Lancaster”. On August 21 we broke camp while fresh snow was falling, and set out for Mestersvig airfield via Malmbjerg, Mellom Pass and Expeditionshause.

HARRY PINKERTON, Lancaster University

This AAJ article has been reformatted into HTML. Please contact us if you spot an error.