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North America, Canada, Interior Ranges, Remillard Group, Selkirks

Remillard Group, Selkirks. Remillard Peak, 11.5 miles northwest of Mount Sanford is the central peak of a southwest wing of the Windy Group. The Remillard Group surrounds upper Windy Creek. The map sections containing these peaks are 82 M/9E and 82 M/16E. The peaks near the upper Remillard Glacier, Unnamed F and “Craw Peak” are of the excellent monzonitic granite found in the Adamant Batholith, while many of the remaining peaks are of the Lardeau formation, many of them of crumbly marble. Beginning on July 14, Dr. George Bell, Morgan A. Broman, James Fitzgerald, Gordon Freedman, Linda Harris, David Jones, Andrew J. Kauffman, June Lehman, David Michael, Jr., William L. Putnam, Lowell Putnam, Karyl Roosevelt and I spent ten sunny and enjoyable days in this area. Most but not all of the members went in by helicopter from Mile 54 near the mouth of the Goldstream River. Base Camp was made above the large gravel flats at 6000 feet on Windy Creek. Because of the heavy snowfall and cool spring, where snow is mentioned here, in another year one may find the spot bare. The area may be divided into four sections — the peaks south of Windy Creek, most of which surround the upper Remillard Glacier; those north of Remillard Peak, which include the three peaks of the “Yardarm Ridge” and “Onderdonk Mountain”; the peaks north of Windy Creek, which are several less impressive loose-rock peaks surrounding the “OK Glacier”; and those at the head of Windy Creek, where there is a fine group of spires and three granitic peaks ending in “Craw Peak” to the south. Remillard Peak, the only officially named peak in the area, was the first attempted. Traveling west, Broman, Fitzgerald, Linda Harris, Lowell Putnam and Kauffman crossed the lower Remillard Glacier beneath a threatening hanging-glacier icefall and ascended a steep, left-sloping snow ramp to the upper basin. From there they slogged arduously through the crevasses of the east face to the summit, where, much to their chagrin, they found a small cairn. Several days later, two parties reached the upper basin by the ramp. Fitzgerald, Kauffman and Bill Putnam proceeded to a low point in the southeast ridge. It would have been Class 4 via the ridge to the summit, but in contouring around a high point on the ridge they added a sticky spot. Bell, Linda Harris, Jones and Michael chose the northeast ridge. The only tricky part was a difficult rappel at the second notch. Although there were several other attractive but unattempted peaks there, the only other peak climbed in this section was Unnamed A (7900 feet; 2.6 miles east-northeast of Remillard Peak). The cliffs of its north face towered over our camp. Bell, Jones, Kauffman, June Lehman, Michael and Bill Putnam put up two routes of F6 difficulty on excellent rock. Directly north of the previous section and west from camp lies the “Yardarm Ridge”. The first peak (8500 feet; 1.65 miles north of Remillard Peak) was ascended by Fitzgerald, Freedman and Broman. On a snowbridge they crossed the tributary of Windy Creek which flows from the lower Remillard Glacier. They gained the pleasant meadows and snowfields of the prominent east ridge, walked to the south shoulder and continued on to the summit, a route of Class-4 difficulty. Three days later, Broman, Lowell Putnam and I again reached the summit by the same route. We continued on down the north ridge to the small snowfield that separates the two peaks. We then skirted beneath a smooth area on the south face and scrambled up a loose gully to the southeast ridge. Here we roped up and climbed the final exposed but not difficult 150 feet to the summit (8600 feet; 1.9 miles north of Remillard Peak). We did not continue to the final 8800-foot peak. The peaks north of Windy Creek are mainly of marble and crumbly shale. Jones, Bill Putnam and I traveled northeast from camp and gained the snowfield east of Unnamed E (9700 feet; 3.7 miles northeast of Remillard Peak). We followed the snow northward to the east snow ridge, this leading to the summit. We decided to climb the granitic spire to the west, which is the summit of Unnamed B before descending to camp. We continued down the west ridge and skirted the southern edge of the “OK Glacier”. Jones and I continued westward up steep scree to the final tower, about 100 feet of easy climbing to the summit (9100 feet; 3.4 miles northeast of Remillard Peak). About ½ mile northeast of Unnamed B is Unnamed C (9700 feet), the south ridge of which resisted an attempt. Broman, Lowell Putnam and I attempted the north face of Unnamed D (8600 feet; 3.2 miles northeast of Remillard Peak) but turned back because of poor rock. Later views revealed that the northeast ridge presents no serious difficulties. “OK Glacier”, north of Unnamed C and D, received its name because it is the only glacier which has not shrunk from the size given on the newer topographical maps. The peaks at the head of Windy Creek are spires of “fairly good” Lardeau marble and the three southernmost peaks are granitic. The first spire ascended was “Whiteface Tower” (9100 feet and 1.4 miles east of Unnamed E), climbed by Bell and Michael. They traveled east from camp and gained and crossed the snowfield at the head of Windy Creek to the col south of the summit. From here the south ridge and difficult F6 rock of the south buttress was followed to the upper snowfield. This was traversed to the northwest ridge and thence back to the summit. “Waldorf Towers” (8600 feet; ? mile southwest of “Whiteface Tower”) form a perfect letter W. Bell, Jones, Michael and Bill Putnam followed the previously described route to the col south of “Whiteface Tower” and easily gained the center of the W; both peaks were climbed from here. The west tower, about four feet thick and 80 feet high, with fair rock, was ascended by the southeast ridge. Only one could ascend at a time, although after the first was up, slings offered useful belays on the crumbly marble. The north face and east ridge of the south tower were somewhat more difficult. Unnamed F (8400 feet; 4.1 miles east northeast of Remillard Peak) is one of three granitic peaks in this section. Freedman, Broman, Linda Harris and I crossed to the south side of Windy Creek and climbed southeast to “Nadir Notch”, the pass that separates Windy Creek from “Craw Creek”, a tributary of Stitt Creek; it also separates Unnamed A and F. Here we picked up the prominent west ridge and followed it to the summit. “Craw Peak” (8650 feet; 4 miles east-southeast of Remillard Peak) was not climbed.

EUGENE F. BOSS, Unaffiliated