Snowpatch Spire, South Face, Bugaboos. The absolute verticality and symmetry of this classic face have always appealed to me when I have been in the Bugaboos. A fine route was established on this face by Hudson, Leemets and Williams in 1966, but a totally independent line lay left of their climb. Jeff Lowe and I anticipated much high-angle free climbing on perfect Bugaboo rock but instead had to be content with endless nailing in leaning dihedrals on decomposed granite. The climb began in a corner on the left side of the face and then broke out up a right leaning crack. After three free pitches, we headed straight up, hammering all the way. It was too much hammering but almost justified because the face is so attractive. Our bivouac was unique and a little spooky in that our hammock was fixed to a jammed nut. The second day’s nailing was similar to the first until we neared the summit for more free climbing. NCCS V, F8 ,A3.

CHRISTOPHER A. G. JONES